Original Pressings, Reissues & Record Grading

How to Identify an Original Pressing

Determining whether a vinyl record is an original pressing — or a later reissue — takes a little detective work. No single clue is definitive, but the following four reference points, taken together, paint a clear picture.

Catalogue Numbers

The catalogue number printed on the sleeve and label is your first port of call. Original pressings from a given country typically carry a specific prefix or suffix tied to the label's original release schedule. Later reissues — domestic or licensed — usually introduce a new number, a revised prefix, or an additional letter (often "RE", "RM", or "180"). Cross-referencing with a discography database such as Discogs is strongly recommended.

Label Details

Look closely at the physical label on the record itself. Early pressings often feature distinctive label designs, logos, or text layouts that changed over time. Key things to check include:

  • The label design era (e.g. EMI "plum" or "Harvest" orange labels have well-documented timelines)
  • Whether the label reads "Made in [country]" — relevant when identifying UK, US, or German originals
  • Publisher and copyright lines, which tend to change across reissues
  • Presence or absence of a barcode (barcodes were not used on most pre-1980s pressings)

Caveat: label designs were sometimes reprinted without any change to the actual pressing.

Barcodes

Original pressings predating the early 1980s will have no barcode on the sleeve. If a sleeve carries a barcode, it was either released after that period or the sleeve has been replaced. That said, a missing barcode alone does not confirm originality — sleeves are easily swapped.

Runout (Matrix) Marks

The most reliable single indicator is the runout groove, the narrow band of blank vinyl between the last track and the label. Numbers, letters, or hand-etched script stamped here encode pressing plant, stamper, and mother information. What to look for:

  • Hand-etched characters — often indicate an early, close-to-source pressing
  • Stamper numbers — a lower number (e.g. A1/B1) generally suggests an earlier pressing from that plant
  • Pressing plant codes — for example "EMI" or "PECKO" in the UK, "RE" or "MO" in the US (Masterdisk, Monarch, etc.)
  • Lacquer cutting engineer initials — some engineers (e.g. "G" for George Peckham) are associated with particularly well-regarded sounds

Caveat: matrix data confirms pressing provenance, not authenticity. Counterfeits can replicate stamped information. Always combine with label, sleeve, and sonic assessment.

Common Record Condition Grades

We grade all records in stock using the following standard, based on the widely used Goldmine Grading Standard. Grades are assessed visually and, where practical, by play-test.

Mint (M)

Absolutely perfect in every way. Never played, possibly still sealed. We rarely use this grade unless a record is demonstrably unplayed and in original factory condition.

Near Mint (NM or M-)

Nearly perfect. A record that has been carefully handled and stored. May show the faintest signs of a single play. Plays without surface noise. This is the highest grade we routinely assign to a played record.

Very Good Plus (VG+)

Shows some signs of play but will still play near-perfectly. Minor scuffs or light marks visible under a strong light, but these will not translate to audible noise in most cases. Our most common grade for high-quality second-hand stock.

Very Good (VG)

Noticeably played. Surface marks and scuffs are visible and may cause occasional light crackle between tracks or in quiet passages. Still enjoyable for most listeners and often the sweet spot for price vs. playability on rarer titles.

Good / Good Plus (G / G+)

Played heavily and shows it. Surface noise will be present throughout. Recommended only for those seeking a copy to fill a gap while hunting for a better one, or for artwork/sleeve purposes.

Poor / Fair (P / F)

Severely damaged. May skip, has deep scratches, or is otherwise barely playable. Listed only where the record has significant historical or collector interest despite its condition.

A Note on Authenticity

None of the indicators above — catalogue numbers, label details, barcodes, or matrix marks — provides absolute proof that a record is an original pressing or is genuine. Sophisticated counterfeits exist for the most sought-after titles, and legitimate reissues sometimes closely mimic original pressings. When significant money is involved, we always recommend consulting a specialist, checking multiple sources, and, ideally, comparing the record in hand to a verified copy.

If you have questions about a specific title in our shop, please get in touch — we're happy to share what we know.